Those of us who mourned the loss of Mul Yam have been wondering whether chef Yoram Nitzan was going to open a new restaurant or take his talents to an established one. The answer is in: He is now helming the kitchen at Bindella Osteria and Bar – and the transition is benefiting not only both sides but also the restaurant-going public in general.
The Tel Aviv outpost of the prominent Swiss restaurant chain boasts a handsomely elegant interior behind a most unassuming entrance. All the trappings of an upscale restaurant are here: leather-bound menus (Hebrew and English), the staff’s excellent English and impeccable service. After every course, our table was quickly cleared and cleaned by the nearest server, and twice during the meal we were offered wet naps from wrappers that had been torn open for us.